Netduma Fraser

You need to put the R3 WAN IP found in WAN Settings into the modem DMZ and you'll get an Open NAT then

It's http://192.168.1.1 or http://routerlogin.net does either of these work?

You can do the DMZ option instead, it'll allow you to get an Open NAT but won't really affect any of their devices

Does it ask you initially to enter your credentials in?

Good to hear it's been stable for that long, I've passed that on so I'll get back to you.

Use the Simple mode instead of Custom Mode to filter. Switch Steady Ping to Simple or disable it - you've set the target ping to be below the lowest ping you can achieve to a game according to Heatmap. Congestion Control is too high, try 70% for both download & upload. You can only use Activities or Devices at one time on SmartBOOST not both, so no need to add your device. You don't need the DMZ and port forwarding enabled for the console, choose one or the other.

Added

I'd suggest reupgrading the firmware using the TFTP method, I know you tried before but it may not have taken, the video here may help to ensure it's been done correctly and then once done do a factory reset for the freshest install possible: https://forum.netduma.com/topic/54949-dumaos-is-not-running/?do=findComment&comment=407569

Sorry for the delay and thanks for the new logs, I think they're going through all the logs from various people and looking into who they need to remote into to investigate further. Could you provide the router MAC address please? There may be some logs/errors we can see that way

That's great thank you, I will pass this on

Good idea, thanks for the suggestion, we've been looking at things like this recently

Did you factory reset after upgrading? If not I'd suggest doing that first. If you have and it continues disable IPv6 in LAN Settings > Advanced and WAN Settings > Advanced and see if it continues please. If it does please get the logs the next time it happens and I can pass it onto the team, it will be a fixable issue.

Do you pay the building complex for the internet or do you have your own contract with an ISP you chose yourself? You're most likely getting that error if you disabled SmartBOOST, if you leave it enabled it shouldn't happen but otherwise you'd have to downgrade firmware.

You should be setting the speeds as what you receive/expect and then throttle by lowering the Congestion Control percentage. Bufferbloat occurs when your speeds are all being used, by utilizing Congestion Control it ensures this can never happen, therefore giving you better results

Is this with DHCP entirely disabled now so it's just the reserved IPs? I couldn't say honestly, it's something we've brought up to NG many years ago

We will be doing more work with the VPN so I can have the team look into it

Set your speeds manually, then test on speedtest.net, what do you get there for upload?

It is present on the R3, it's hidden in Ping Optimizer > Advanced, you can adjust it there like you would with the XR1000

On the router interface in LAN Settings > Advanced and WAN Settings > Advanced

That's awesome to hear, thanks for posting your experience, we appreciate it!

Remove all the port forwarding, copy the WAN IP on the R3 (found in WAN Settings) and set this in the fiber router, then check whether the issue is resolved.

From what we've been able to gather from testing so far, it seems to Geo-Lock you and matchmaking appears to use a proxy/relay server so we can't actively block it. We have a few ideas of what we can try but it will take awhile and it may not be possible overall.

It would the testing team a long time to check, it would be better to search online for the ports that each game uses to see if the list is accurate. CoD mobile is listed here for example: https://support.activision.com/articles/ports-used-for-call-of-duty-games

A lot of wireless devices e.g headphones, mice, speakers etc all use the 2.4GHz band so my first thought given it's just that band going down is that you may have devices like this in close proximity to the router (within ~3 feet), does this seem plausible in your situation? Also worth mentioning if you have a microwave close by then using that will cause that to happen as well. If not, do you notice any patterns with it going off, a particular time of day, particular internet traffic etc.

No you don't need to upgrade any further or do anything else, just please provide the logs when the issue happens next on this firmware. I would suggest doing a factory reset if you haven't already to see if that helps stabilize things.