DARKNESS

@Paul_81
Cheating is rampant across all platforms—no game is safe. Developers are doing their best to fight back, but cheaters constantly find new ways around anti-cheat systems. One rising method is using SD cards or USB devices to bypass protections—especially on consoles. So let’s be clear: the idea that consoles are “safe” is a myth. Cheaters have already figured out how to slip past detection.
Even worse, retailers are openly selling cheat devices on store shelves. These scripting tools might not modify game code, but that doesn’t make them any less of a cheat. They spoof inputs to create inhuman precision and speed, giving players an unfair edge. Just because it’s hardware-based doesn’t make it legitimate—it’s still cheating.
I’m not naming specific devices here because they don’t need any more attention. But if you know, you know.
The only people who don’t regularly run into cheaters are casual players. If you’re playing at high ranks, it’s a different story. As someone who’s reached Master rank eight times in Apex Legends, I see it every day—DMA cheaters tracking through walls like it's nothing, blatantly obvious. It’s not a “get better” issue—it’s a broken system. And don’t get me started on the input scripters. Some of them even brag about it. They’re not hiding—they’re proud. You can spot them by their tags. Sure, some try to fly under the radar, but it’s obvious if you know what to look for. One group I’ve run into over and over uses the tag “TTOK.” From what I’ve seen, they’re part of a coordinated network. They try to blend in, but their behavior gives them away every time. 
I know this sounds like a rant, but honestly—it’s infuriating how bad the cheating situation has gotten

@Paul_81
Cheating is rampant across all platforms—no game is safe. Developers are doing their best to fight back, but cheaters constantly find new ways around anti-cheat systems. One rising method is using SD cards or USB devices to bypass protections—especially on consoles. So let’s be clear: the idea that consoles are “safe” is a myth. Cheaters have already figured out how to slip past detection.
Even worse, retailers are openly selling cheat devices on store shelves. These scripting tools might not modify game code, but that doesn’t make them any less of a cheat. They spoof inputs to create inhuman precision and speed, giving players an unfair edge. Just because it’s hardware-based doesn’t make it legitimate—it’s still cheating.
I’m not naming specific devices here because they don’t need any more attention. But if you know, you know.
The only people who don’t regularly run into cheaters are casual players. If you’re playing at high ranks, it’s a different story. As someone who’s reached Master rank eight times in Apex Legends, I see it every day—DMA cheaters tracking through walls like it's nothing, blatantly obvious. It’s not a “get better” issue—it’s a broken system. And don’t get me started on the input scripters. Some of them even brag about it. They’re not hiding—they’re proud. You can spot them by their tags. Sure, some try to fly under the radar, but it’s obvious if you know what to look for. One group I’ve run into over and over uses the tag “TTOK.” From what I’ve seen, they’re part of a coordinated network. They try to blend in, but their behavior gives them away every time. 
I know this sounds like a rant, but honestly—it’s infuriating how bad the cheating situation has gotten

@BrunoYou can ignore ping optimizer as it not 100% accurate if you want to configure it professionally I'd use ping plotter but alternatively you can use https://www.waveform.com/tools/bufferbloat or lastly use your own system to configure the best setting by using command prompts and constantly ping a site will saturating the network.

That just placebo or the game being broken the way aim assist works for controller is when you move your character while aiming the stick it pulls you towards the player somewhat it not aimbot it an assist so if you are not precise with your aim then that your problem.Though knowing activision tactics it can just be the simple fact there manipulating your matches to an extent.

@Reykc9510This is because the ping optimizer is not entirely accurate. It utilizes the mlab test, which, from experience, is not reliable as it doesn’t count for bufferbloat but more so latency under no load or some but it is more based on web surfing rather than VOIP. In addition, you can’t pick the server manually through the Netduma router, so you don’t know what server it is picking; therefore, it is unreliable as you can be connected 200 miles away and that affects results, etc. It is something Netduma is trying to improve, but I can’t say much more than that...

@Nj12Jitter is not something that can be particularly controlled by the user. While congestion control can mitigate its effects, there is a limit to its effectiveness, and each connection is different because they are all related to the user’s Internet Service Provider (ISP). Though if you have excessive jitter like anything beyond 20-30ms, you should definitely get in contact with your ISP as that would, of course, impact your services.

Yes you’ll have to cut your speeds in exchange that how it works. It just SQM (Smart Queue Management).

@Reykc9510Didn't you go through this before? You need to adjust it till you get A+ and 0ms.

@Netduma Alex
Application name: Hulu Device type used for capture: MACOS M1 Any other comments: Not Detected  https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/waog51yeewb6sa0b4pwag/HULU.pcapng?rlkey=ygieqxjknjpjh2f1lq6xjtvd8&st=fjl8qm73&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/jiknufoju2aiycgyqaf6a/HULU2.pcapng?rlkey=voz6kuko2lhb7rk1luxsgrs41&st=6vpykaec&dl=0

@MatijaCool, no big deal. Understandable, as you’re on PC as well, so hackers and DDoS are more prevalent. So for QoS, just tweak your speeds to where you no longer have packet loss. The best way to do this is to run a speed test or use something like Waveform. Do remember to connect all devices to the XR1000 or just simply disable Wi-Fi bands on the Fritzbox if it’s an option.

@MatijaDid you set it up to always on the QoS page? Because if it’s on auto, then it’s not going to properly apply as it would only apply when it detects certain applications. DMZ isn’t safe, but it’s the only option if you want to open ports while gaming through the XR1000.

@MatijaHere’s a link that you can use as a reference to find the option after you do take the WAN IP from the XR1000 and add that to the Fritzbox.
https://nl.fritz.com/service/knowledge-base/dok/FRITZ-Box-6660-Cable/131_Exposed-host-in-FRITZ-Box-configureren/

@MatijaA router cannot resolve packet loss issues that originate outside the network, which appears to be the case. Have you had a technician inspect your node and box unit? If you conduct a pingplotter test for approximately five minutes, what results do you obtain?

@KinGzzyThere's something called google search ....

@KinGzzyThere's something called google search ....

@KahariThe R3 can only handle 1G, with a maximum speed of 800-900Mbps. The ping optimizer is a known issue that’ll be fixed in the next firmware update. But if you know how to adjust for bufferbloat, it’s not a must-have feature. For convenience, try using incognito mode or an extension that clears your cache. Sometimes, saved cache can cause problems, especially with DumaOS. If you need to factory reset your device, use the interface instead of the pinhole. It might not work in some cases, and the guaranteed method is through the interface.
I use Comcast and to be honest their AQM sucks so you need to set up SQM properly. If you can’t get pingplotter then just use https://www.waveform.com/tools/bufferbloat

@KahariHave you tried running the XR500 in AP mode? 

@KahariHave you tried running the XR500 in AP mode? 

@Cajun72If you are using a modem, it would be straightforward to connect directly to it and diagnose the issue. If you observe similar results, it is likely that your internet service provider (ISP) is experiencing problems or that something has been damaged and requires repair. Additionally, you can review the modem logs if you have a significant number of uncorrectable errors, as this can provide further evidence of an issue.

@Reykc9510I disable it only when there’s a huge download to speed up the process and re-enable it once finished.

@Matthew_D
You only need this feature if your ping spikes consistently in game/have jitter problems do to your ISP it more or less it a remedy for those that do have bad jitter but if you don't then it puts you at disavantage as your just increasing your ping artificially with no benefit.
Ping is King do not forget that I still get shot behind corners it not like you can break physics but there something called consistancy and if you want that then it beneficial. My ping spikes around 5-10ms so I just use simple mode and it really hard to tell difference to be honest as the router already does a good job without it but that probably because I don't really suffer from jitter as much as others.
Update
For my purposes, it would be preferable if the feature were disabled. There is a noticeable delay, and Fuzzy is correct in stating that this issue is solely related to the server, not your ISP.

Update the video to make it easier to follow. I messed up some of the instructions, and there’s no proper guidance on the internet. If you don’t follow a step, you’ll get stuck with issues like sending files to the wrong directory or failing to access them. It took me almost a full week to figure out what was wrong, and it was a painful ride with looking up information that I guess no one wants to specify or have videos for, thank me later. 
Plug the Ethernet adapter in to avoid the error “pcap: no such device exists”.
This procedure can be done in most Netgear products as TFTP for some reason fails most of the time, and this resolves this issue into just doing it once, and it works.
Link to Video
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/01y28isz5ce3h8q62lmpw/1227.mp4?rlkey=6kzq5kxyq94jzt03z04qubddm&st=g6f35m7w&dl=0
Follow the steps from the first video until you reach 57 seconds. You can stop there. I’m not redoing it, but here’s a demo of an R7000 going from OEM to OpenWRT and back.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ghc7mu04mbhupuge4bm60/1228.mp4?rlkey=qee5qf5q5bext6jbvhfz79eb2&st=0b2qj84q&dl=0

Update the video to make it easier to follow. I messed up some of the instructions, and there’s no proper guidance on the internet. If you don’t follow a step, you’ll get stuck with issues like sending files to the wrong directory or failing to access them. It took me almost a full week to figure out what was wrong, and it was a painful ride with looking up information that I guess no one wants to specify or have videos for, thank me later. 
Plug the Ethernet adapter in to avoid the error “pcap: no such device exists”.
This procedure can be done in most Netgear products as TFTP for some reason fails most of the time, and this resolves this issue into just doing it once, and it works.
Link to Video
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/01y28isz5ce3h8q62lmpw/1227.mp4?rlkey=6kzq5kxyq94jzt03z04qubddm&st=g6f35m7w&dl=0
Follow the steps from the first video until you reach 57 seconds. You can stop there. I’m not redoing it, but here’s a demo of an R7000 going from OEM to OpenWRT and back.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ghc7mu04mbhupuge4bm60/1228.mp4?rlkey=qee5qf5q5bext6jbvhfz79eb2&st=0b2qj84q&dl=0

@BAGGY67In bridge mode, did you add your PPPoE details on the R3? You can check this out as it seems to be a setup process that correlates to your issue https://community.plus.net/t5/My-Router/Hub-One-or-new-Hub-Two-in-bridge-mode/td-p/1937055
 
http://192.168.1.254 Advanced Setting > Broadband > Internet > Bridging > Enabled. Save settings.  

@DJAYYHere’s the clip to help you: https://jam.dev/c/60593dd7-aef7-4e16-badd-419845ce0a8c. Type “bing.com” in a PS5 message, click the link, search for “IP leak test,” and check your IP before changing. Then enable HVPN and check if the IP has changed. NordVPN shows if you’re using their VPN.