Newfoundland

Did you factory reset. You need to do that and set up as new. Your client will then show up.

Hi, glad it’s all sorted. Did you by any chance pop in from Reddit?

Couple of questions. do you any type of special characters in your WiFi password and have you tried changing it? You could set up a guest WiFi to test too, give it a name like Testme and a password different to your main one. what’s your security setting ie.WPA? what’s the range of the ps5 to the router? Whats the settings under both 2.4 and 5Ghz on the bandwidth side? have you performed a manual install of the firmware followed by a reset. When you set up don’t use a saved config profile. Do you notice when it disconnects that it’s just the device ie PS5 or does it drop the 5GHz channel?

The link above shows all previous firmware but for security it’s best to keep up to date and make use of new features. Fraser or Liam will soon pop in to help and get you sorted.

There’s no easy question about latency and QoS. I know what you mean but it’s hardware fighting software. If you say have a 8x8 router and a 2x2 router and had 3 2x2 clients then the 8x8 router would handle them better on the WiFi as they can talk all at once where they are queuing on the 2x2 router and no QoS can solve that latency. It’s the downside to WiFi. add into the mix hardwired, coding and hardware then you can start to see why its not a simple answer. ideally you want less resources used but as we know that’s not always possible. It’s why there is no holy grail of routers. it’s why some go pfsense to have the options of security, hardware and can install various applications like different QoS but in general that might be a tad too much for a gamer who wants a simple setup and is not wanting to learn in depth about networking.

Base ping is what it is be it 1 client or 100 clients. It’s the latency from your peering contract connection which is why some isps offer better connections depending on your area and what’s available. It’s hard when you talk about latency on a network, you have clients dating right back to WiFi 4,5 and 6. Clients, their chipsets and the routers hardware all impact it which is why networking is never bog standard. there’s room for all type of routers, would be a boring world if they were all square. Yes Asus services do gather data but it’s not unusual to see data collection from the likes of your isp and so on but it depends on what you are happy with. Most third party security systems probably collect the info. On the more sophisticated routers you can block access to services, might impact the quality of service though. I use an IPS/IDS and what is called a honeypot which is in simple terms a fake device that is open to scans internally. I did have a nasty on a shield tv box and I caught it looking at my network and trying to send out. its like opening ports, most leave them open but good practise is to close them after use, DMZ same thing or to have IoT isolated via Vlan. Everything depends on how secure you want your network or what you want. The way I look at Duma is it’s firstly made for gamers, it ticks the boxes for what a gamer may want. Cisco are for business that want security and great customer service at a price, Unifi for those on a licence free budget with no support. Netgear is simple firmware, Asus that bit more control in the UI and the list goes on. I suppose you could bling the router yourself, bit like the Astro headsets so you could customise it and might be something to look at. Would love different themes in the UI so you could alter how to info is shown. Notifications of issues would be nice with custom rules would also be nice.

Looks awful, the Alien looks much better if only it did not have that old chipset inside. regarding the ping latency, I’m guessing Killhippie meant your base ping which is what you are stuck on. Routers tend to control your home environment with the exception of the geo filter in Duma but in general your base ping is limited to your connection. personally I would prefer a pretty basic router styling but have a UI or even a mobile app that is fully functional like the Unifi pro consumer units. There’s no doubt flashy bling may sell but it’s what’s underneath that counts.

Many use PingPlotter which is a great tool to start with. There’s a free version to try. How many devices are connected, feel free to post a photo of device manager and your QoS page. Wifi interference is never easy. When you check on a client that client does not have the range or sensitivity of the router so you may not see all neighbouring channels and then you have those that pop in and out ie. Car WiFi and so on. it could be that during peak times your isp service is to blame but PingPlotter will show that up. Best to have a wired connection when running PingPlotter ie. Pc wire to router.

Hi, just verify the AP are wired into the R2 please. What APs are you using? Are you using QoS and if so could you post a picture showing the QoS setup. Are the devices connecting to the R2 or the APs?

I’ve no idea how they all tend to work. Unifi have a service but it’s not available over here. I’m thinking I may just end up using a mobile rather than worrying about voip. I can use my echo devices to call most people

Some router companies offer Voip, do you think we could talk Netduma into it 😊

Good old BT. if you are not looking for a paid voip service then the simple Amazon echos would work. I’ve use them but it’s just for basic use so no message system and so on. like you we have just had the old cables installed so it’s something I need to look into as well when I move over.

No it’s fine, it holds the firmware but clears memory so you are all good.

Did it Find an internet connection on setup?

That’s great. Use the rear pinhole to reset. Hold it in for 20 seconds, release and then allow it to fully boot up before setting up.

If the update went to plan you need to reset and do a fresh set up. once you have done that and it’s up and running then do a test to double check your lan speeds are working as intended.

Were you updating over WiFi? Is so double check the firmware version installed as the client doing the upgrade loses connection. If it’s not updating its best for Fraser or Liam to pop in as they’ve already started the procedure to get you up-to-date and I will just confuse the issue.

It’s under settings, you will see the WiFi tab. Take your time to explore the features so you get to know the layout if it’s now running ok. The chances are both 2.4 and 5Ghz are already on the correct settings but you can double check.

Set the 2.4ghz to 20Mhz and use this channel for IoT devices. Set the 5ghz to 80Mhz. if you are using both your isp and R2 WiFi at the same time insure they are not on the same channel to help with interference. Positioning is very important to obtain the best performance, you may get a tad more out of the R2’s WiFi. The best I’ve achieved on average is 450Mbps.

The latest XR500 firmware can be found under the support page as well as previous versions. https://www.netgear.com/support/product/XR500.aspx

Ah sorry I looked at your profile and saw you had the XR500, that’s got the tick box but yes I believe you had it set to 160Mhz. Fingers crossed that’s fixed it.

That may not be related to preamble. What width is tour 5Ghz set you ie 80Mhz? don’t tick the 160Mhz, that will cause devices to drop that don’t support it. Run a WiFi scanner to see if the 5Ghz drops or is not showing when the problem cops up.

If you don’t have 802.11b devices I would try short, you may not notice any difference though.

To be fair to Bert I’ve seen some really awful fibre connections in the US where base pings were really poor. That boils down to the isp and that maybe why some try to source a way of finding a better connection but of course you can’t really sort out issues when the connection is poor to start with but if it helps to some extent that’s good news. If you post a vid it would be great showing the ER4 SQM. Always nice to compare when you have time to do so.

I think Netduma quote around the 350 mark that above does not require QoS depending on the network, Unifi quote 300, in fact they have it set on by default at 300 or below on the UDM range so you need to disable it if you don’t wish to use it. my rather low 57DL and 11UL benefits from it which is what it should be doing if it works correctly.