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General Snivy

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About General Snivy

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/25/1990

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    Gaming, technology, and computers
  1. I had my taxes done for 2018 recently and I'm expecting a big refund. What I am planning on doing is using some of the money from it to buy myself a new chair. The one I'm sitting in now is uncomfortable, especially when sitting in it for long periods of time. I got my current chair last year because my old chair broke and I needed a new one immediately and I was on a tight budget. One year later and it's already showing signs of wear and tear from normal everyday use, ie the pleather is cracking on the armrests, the gas pump is not staying up as it should, and some bolts came loose and fell off my chair, which I put back on. Before I get into what kind of chair I'm looking for, let me share with you all a little information about myself and my current needs. I am someone who's 6'5" and I weigh about 400 pounds. (For anyone wondering, my current chair is rated to support people up to 450 pounds.) I sit in my current chair for many hours every day, anywhere from 6-10+ hours and after a while, my butt hurts and I have to get up to relieve the pain. Of course, I do get up from my chair and leave my man cave to take care of normal everyday tasks such as taking care of errands, cleaning the house, going to the bathroom, etc. My current chair rolls around on carpet that isn't too deep and the wheels don't get tangled up at all ever. I also like to relax in the chair and lean back, but not too far back that I'm practically on the floor. My current chair did have the ability to recline with its back, but it can't seem to do so anymore. The space I currently have with my current chair is that it sits ~12" away from the left side of my bed with the remaining room taken up by my desk, meaning I have ~2' of forward and backward space to work with while having ~3' of space to move left and right while facing either my desk or my bed. My current chair, if I have to guess is ~12" wide, which is not wide enough for a big guy like me and at its highest hight is ~3 or 3.5' from the ground, which isn't very high and at its lowest feels like I'm sitting on the floor, which is ~12" off the ground. I think that covers most of the important stuff, now I'll go ahead and transition into what I've done as far as research is concerned and what my price range is like. When it comes to price, money is a very big object and I don't want to break the bank if possible. My price range is no more than $700 as I don't want to spend my entire tax refund on a new chair. While searching for a chair within that price range while also keeping my body and personal needs in mind along with what I intend to use the chair for, I have been researching this topic and have come across 2 different chairs that seem to suit my needs; the E-Win Formula + series gaming chair and the DxRacer Tank series gaming chair. From what I've seen, it seems that the E-Win chair is the better chair of the 2, however, I need to know which of these is going to suit my needs best and which one will last longer than a couple of years. I'm looking for a chair that will last at least 5 years, preferably more and I'm also looking for one that I can sit in for hours on end without getting cramps in either my butt or my back. Although I only listed these 2 chairs, that doesn't mean that I'm not interested in looking at other chairs either. If you have any suggestions on a chair that you like or you sit in currently, feel free to share your thoughts and also if you can, please include a link to where you purchased your chair. Thank you all for your time and I look forward to hearing what you have to say about chairs.
  2. 1) PS4 Pro 2) Hardcore Nuketown Moshpit, Hardcore TDM, Hardcore Kill Confirmed, core TDM, core Kill Confirmed, Safeguard 3) Netduma R1 (Early Adoptor Edition) 4) United States East Coast 5) Unable to find games in both Filtered and Spectator mode. When I am able to find a game, the ping is typically over 100 milliseconds and all connections are peer-to-peer. Never any dedicated servers. I also have constant skips especially when there's more than one person on screen. 6) This was already done multiple times and I'm still experiencing the same issues!
  3. Sounds good to me. I would like my username to return to my original one, GeneralSnivy.
  4. Lately, I have been experiencing random Blue Screens of Death and they have been occurring at least once per week, sometimes 2 or 3 times in one day. Each time I get a BSOD, the error, or what caused the BSOD, is different. The last couple of times this occurred, it messed up some of the drivers on some of my devices, such as my external hard drive and my Blue Yeti microphone. I was able to fix them eventually, but it still concerns me that this is happening so frequently. I've had my computer for many years now and maybe, this is a sign that my primary hard drive is dying. It's not making any odd noises, like clicking as if it was a dolphin or anything. The hard drive still works fine, for the most part. It's just the BSODs are annoying to deal with, especially since they are random when they happen. Before I go any further, I want to iterate that the hard drive in question is a regular, 3.5" desktop mechanical hard drive. It is a Western Digital HDD, but I'm unsure of what it's RPM is. I'm going to guess 5400 at least. The hard drive is over 7 years old and it has ran 3 operating systems so far in its lifetime. First, was Windows 7 Ultimate, then Windows 8.1 Pro, then finally, Windows 10 Pro, which is its current operating system. (Each OS install was using legit legal versions of the respective OS's. From OEM, to a retail purchase upgrade, to a free upgrade which Microsoft was offering when Windows 10 was first made available.) If anyone is interested, here are my system specs: Anyway, my plan is to buy a new hard drive, an external hard drive to back up all of my important data, and a retail copy of Windows 10. Then, I'll reinstall Windows 10 fresh onto the new hard drive. The main reason why I'm making this topic is because, my second internal hard drive that's currently installed in my PC, is storing all of my steam games. Since the second hard drive has a primary partition, will I be able to use it along with the new hard drive to restore my Steam library without much downtime after a fresh install of Windows 10? Or will I have to delete the partition and reformat the second hard drive before I can use it again?
  5. Hello. I wanted to go ahead and re-introduce myself to this forum. I haven't been here for awhile because, well, life happened. Anyway, the reason why I said that I want to re-introduce myself is because my previous username, GeneralSnivy, is tied to a Twitter login. (Meaning, that I used Twitter to register to the forums the first time.) I tried to log into my original profile using the Twitter link, but the forums kept giving me an error. The error I'm getting is this: I'm not a moderator, nor a networking engineer, but I'm pretty sure that I, the end user, am not supposed to see this. So, I went ahead and created a secondary account to use here until I can somehow get my original one back.
  6. Hello. I've recently purchased myself a PS4 Pro so that way I can take advantage of certain PS4 enhanced games that offer higher framerates while playing at 1080p. On my old PS4, I had Open NAT on COD WWII and Black Ops 3, but now I only have Moderate NAT. I have the new PS4 Pro hooked up directly to the NetDuma router and the router is running version 1.03.6g. Due to networking complications with my ISP, Spectrum, I have to use the NetDuma Router as some sort of "Bridge" in order to connect all of my devices, including the PS4 Pro via LAN, to the router that Spectrum provided for me in another room. I cannot use Wi-Fi on the NetDuma as it interferes with the signal provided by Spectrum's router so, that's out of the question. At this point, I have tried rebuilding the database on the PS4 Pro twice already and both times, it didn't fix the issue. Under the UPnP settings on the NetDuma interface, the required port for Demonware to access the PS4 Pro is showing up with its required ports as seen here: https://gyazo.com/023c51c5c93003f2eca0ad4cbd1fce57 I've also tried to re-assign the Geo-filter to the PS4 Pro from its originally assigned device, the old PS4 named: Playstation 4. (The PS4 Pro is listed as an unnamed device and I was only able to figure out which device was the PS4 Pro by its MAC address which was listed under DHCP Lease.) I tried to enable and disable Boost Mode in the PS4's menu and that too didn't do anything at all. The last thing I tried was to disable the Geo filter for the device and once again, Moderate NAT. Now, I'm redownloading Call of Duty: Modern Warfare Remastered to see if using that game and getting into the game's multiplayer menu will open up my NAT type. (It's going to take all night to finish downloading unfortenately.) The reason why is because I've heard that opening up that game, or COD Ghosts, will open up your NAT type every time it switches to Moderate. (I could be wrong on that though.) Also, when I ran tests on the PS4 to determine the NAT type, it says it's a Type 2, which normally isn't a problem as it usually results in an Open NAT. Why is it not so this case? I have no clue. If anyone here can help me restore my Open NAT type on these games, that would be great! Also, Port Forwarding is out of the question! It's too complicated and when I did it before, I had to reset my router completely in order to restore internet connectivity for all devices. (Granted, this happened on an older router of mine and not this one, but still.)
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