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lllRL

lllRL

Member Since 22 Jul 2016
Offline Last Active 17 minutes ago
*****

R1 taking a dump?

3 weeks ago

I picked up my phone earlier to check a website and noticed it wasn't responding despite the WiFi symbol indicating I was still connected to the R1 WiFi, so I rebooted the R1 to see if that would clear things up. I haven't had any issues like this after my last reboot about a week ago, but I also haven't been on my GUI for a while as I haven't played any games for a week or so (kept my PS4 unplugged because of constant storms, and I don't want a repeat of 2016...) so all in all it was a bit strange. That didn't clear it up. Either my WiFi would keep dropping out every other second or it would say "connected with Internet" but nothing (not even the GUI) would respond. When I could get the GUI to finally load, I tried a diagnostic test but it failed with "something went wrong" and the weird white grade text as well as no ping results. I tried to open my speedtest app as it's usually a good indicator of problems when it doesn't immediately identify my ISP and my nearest server, and it just showed buffering symbols.

So I reset to factory defaults and did the usual - reconnected with the netdumar1 password, changed it to my usual password and reconnected, turned off IPv6 and miscellaneous settings, and changed WiFi channel. It was worse than before so I tried changing WiFi channel back to default and it made no difference. Pages would load (kinda) on the browser now, but even the GUI page load times were slow and you don't even need an Internet connection to access that. I ran a wired speed test with everything maxed (correct values in set bandwidth, 100% reactive, no device prio, no other devices online) and got 15Mb down, 1Mb up, 15ms latency and 22ms jitter. I turned my BT Smart Hub WiFi on, connected my phone to it and using the speedtest app, I got 7ms latency, 0ms jitter, 52Mb down and 10Mb up. No issues loading web pages there. Also when trying to do the diagnostic test on the R1 90% of them fail now, and the ones that work show double my usual latency. Never seen that before either.

Any idea what's going on? Usually this constant dropping out nonsense happens when you're forced to change WiFi channels, but none of them make a difference and the GUI itself is unresponsive lol. I'm saving a backup of this question to my clipboard just in case the connection times out when I send it ._.

Edit - now getting <4Mb down and <0.05Mb up. FML.

H1Z1 mislocated server IDs (and will you add this game to cloud?)

4 weeks ago

Just hopped on for the first time with the filter disabled to see what's what on PS4, and I see a single dot in California. Supposedly getting 13ms~ (although somehow it just dropped to 0.1ms) from the UK lol. ID is:

23456833e2c2a9ae

Will you guys be doing anything on the cloud for H1 or? I'm not sure how that works, regarding games you choose to support or whatever. I know it probably has a server browser but it'd be nice to know where they are haha

Anyone know how to interpret HG612 stats?

04 May 2018 - 10:40 PM

Just been messing around on my laptop monitoring performance over trace routes (been seeing some sus traffic to the US) and trying to optimise settings, and saw something barmy in the stats...

Mode - VDSL2
Traffic type - PTM
DSL synchronisation status - Up
DSL up time - 0 (???)

Attainable rates (kbits/s) - 62052 downstream, 25264 upstream
SNR margin (dB) - 12.3 downstream, 0 upstream
Line attenuation (dB) - 13.6 downstream, 1.7 upstream
Output power (dBmV) - 13.6 downstream, 1.7 upstream

Line rate (kbits/s) - 55000 downstream, 9999 upstream (path 0)
CRC errors - 126 downstream, 127 downstream
FEC errors - 0 downstream, 0 upstream
HEC errors - 122 downstream, 4294967290 upstream

Umm... 4.3 billion errors? Please tell me it's just trolling? LOL I don't know how to telnet BTW; that's totally foreign to me.

Also for anyone who's using the HG612 - what am I supposed to use for DSL latency (path 0 or 1 or both) and PTM priority (normal high or both)? Thanks.

Edit - also what do I need to use for 802.1p? I know the VLAN ID for BT Infinity is 101 but idk what the value below it is for. The possible range is 0 to 7.

Port 3074 to 3106? (not a range)

28 April 2018 - 07:00 PM

Hi, just a quick question as I've never seen this before.

Under UPnP on the R1 I've seen a couple of things I don't recognise. First UDP 9308 appears twice, even though the max number of rules I usually see on the PS4 is two (UDP 3074 and 9308). But the weird one shows external port 3106, internal port 3074.

I know that 3074 "translates" to another port server side - as seen by random five digit ports being seen on Wireshark - but that's never appeared on my R1 before. It's always just UDP 3074-3074 and UDP 9308-9308 lol. Why on earth would UPnP be showing port 3106? I've never heard of it being used in games.

BTW the different IP at the bottom is for WiFi on my PS4. I wanted to make and edit a video away from the PS4 so I turned on Remote Play (but I got interrupted hence the lack of Remote Play ports in there, like 9303). I don't see why 3074 would be in use on WiFi because I always have moderate NAT using WiFi even with UPnP on :P

Downgrade from 1.03.6j possible?

24 April 2018 - 11:09 PM

Hi fellow Duma bros!

When I bought my replacement Netduma last year it came preloaded with 1.03.6h. I can't remember what my first Netduma was running (probably .g) but the new one also had issues with port forwarding and the geofilter being used simultaneously, so I downgraded to 1.03.4 where that wasn't an issue. The 1.03.6h guide states:

"1.03.6h if you ordered after June 1st. 6h does not have additional features. If you're on .6h please do not downgrade to .6g"

Eventually 1.03.6i released so I thought I'd try that, and again I didn't have any issues rolling back when I wanted to. I've got the sig files for 1.03.4, 1.03.6h, i and j stored on my phone for quick upgrades and downgrades, and never had issues doing this. However i didn't fix that GUI lag issue or make any other difference so I upgraded to j when it came out just to see if that made any difference. The 1.03.6j guide states, rather more firmly:

"If you are on 1.03.6j then NEVER downgrade your router as you WILL brick the router"

The j firmware neither made a difference nor has any different features, as confirmed by Fraser himself. It's also the exact same size as the i firmware as if to confirm it's no different lol. My question is if there's no difference, and I successfully downgraded from h that came installed on the R1 when I first got it, am I really unable to go back to 1.03.4 or anything else?

I'm noticing UPnP issues again with port 3074 and I need to forward manually, but that means using the filter and then being able to access the GUI after is gonna be a major PITA.

So I just need some clarification. Will trying to downgrade from j absolutely 100% guarantee bricking the router, or will it work just like going back from h as I did before? You might think "duh, if it says it'll brick the router..." but it was asked of us not to downgrade from h either and that worked out just fine lol

I don't really want to have to deal with any more GUI lag issues so I'd rather just keep it on 1.03.4 until DumaOS arrives :D