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lllRL

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lllRL last won the day on September 20

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About lllRL

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  • Birthday November 14

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    Hi :) https://www.youtube.com/c/RL1411

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  1. lllRL

    DMZ on Smart Hub

    It might be worth setting it to a different IP manually, but the original problem might still remain if the DHCP range was changed on the R1 to something other than .88.1. Do you recall changing that at any point? In fact I might have misguided you above by saying check the R1 WiFi properties. What happens if you right click and check properties under IPv4 for the LAN connection? Before trying anything else just have a look at that first. That might be manually set to something else. I know I've done something similar before whenever I've wanted to access my HG612 modem GUI (because you're supposed to change that to 192.168.1.100), and whenever I wanted to get back online normally I couldn't get online because I forgot the LAN was now set to a different IP lol That's the most likely explanation I can think of anyway.
  2. lllRL

    DMZ on Smart Hub

    Just reread your post from Monday and I'm a little confused. The laptop is connected to the R1 via ethernet cable or its WiFi right? Could the WiFi have dropped out and auto connected to another WiFi point in your house, normally the ISP combo? It should be getting a 192.168.88.x IP, not 192.168.1.x, as that's the standard DHCP range on the R1. IIRC it's 192.168.88.100-250 as standard, and I might be mistaken but I don't think you can use 192.168.1.x. Whenever I've changed it I think I had to use 192.168.2.x. Do me a favour. Just double check that you're connected to the R1 on your laptop, and then go to "change adapter settings" in the Network & Sharing Centre, right click the R1 WiFi, hit "properties", click "Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4)" and then hit "properties" below it as shown in the screenshot below, and then just make sure it says "obtain an IP address automatically". With that 192.168.1.64 IP on the laptop, rather than that being set as the R1 WAN IP, it sounds like you're connected to the Smart Hub as they use the 192.168.1.x range as standard.
  3. Gotcha, thanks for clarifying 😆 well either way at least it didn't last long and it's looking normal. I shouldn't need to contact them now my download is basically up to the max my line can handle and it's cleared the minimum guaranteed figure 👍
  4. Not sure what that means but I'll take it lol. Was that a brief period of interleaving then while it figured out "what's what"? I always thought it was a gradual thing where the ISP leaves it to settle down and ensure there's no fault before allowing the DLM or whatever to switch back. When I had that fault on BT that stole half my bandwidth, I was taken off interleaving as soon as I was back online. I was expecting it to go on for a few weeks as it "recovered" I guess haha I think I read that the 10 day thing only applies to ADSL?
  5. That didn't take long lol. Bandwidth has actually increased above my guaranteed minimum now, although it's still slightly lower than the estimated range. I daresay getting a modem or combo with bridge mode enabled into the mix would lower latency further as it did with BT too. In fact I only saw 6ms and low 7s when taking the second "router" out of the equation on BT. Maybe I'll even see my first 5s if I can just figure out how to get a modem only + R1 setup working lol
  6. Yeah I know location is a factor. It's just that I was on 6-8ms on BT and I know interleaving adds increments of 8ms (I believe), which is what I saw a couple of months ago when I had a line issue and my Smart Hub got stuck in a reboot loop. The TT Hub doesn't show a fast path or interleaving status in its stats, so I guess I'll just have to keep an eye on it. I spoke to the TT Twitter folks and they said if I still can't reach the minimum guaranteed download speed I should contact them. Is it normal for that to increase to normal in this 9 day period? Edit: okay now I'm just lost for words...
  7. It was a one off to be fair. Several more tests have shown between 14.7-15.3ms. I'd love to know how long I'm supposed to be on interleaving though. In regular IPoE mode I now get a WAN IP on the R1 so I can DMZ it, but I can't find anything about using a modem only or bridge mode on a combo.
  8. I believe DMC is Canadian so the terminology may be a little difference. I did a search for Bell AIO and found talk of all-in-one devices. This must be another way to say modem/router combo like we get from our ISPs I'm also using my "AIO" from TalkTalk as I can't get bridge mode working on my TP Link. At least I finally found a WAN IP I could DMZ though. For some reason it picked up my R1 as an ethernet device and reported the end of its IP as .1.108, but it randomly changed to .1.11 and now that shows up on my R1 device manager page. So I don't have the ideal setup yet with two routers working together, but at least I won't have moderate NAT anymore. I've been having problems in games (bipolarity with hit detection on reportedly low pings) so out of pure desperation I will also try DPI and stealth mode LOL
  9. Yeah I've been here for a few years now and I've never had any problems with the sliders before. The only weird occurrence I've noticed regarding bandwidth in the past involves keeping 100% sliders but using device prio - you end up with a portion of your total being shaved off, so I've never used it in my normal setup. The sliders have always worked as expected up until I discovered bloat on DSLReports. For what it's worth the PS4 browser tests have always been accurate for me, and I could normally use as high as 97% in order to get bloat down below 3ms average. Now the bloat is the same whether I use 100% or 30% 🤔 it's actually 20Mb upload I'm still getting lol. Usually the only discrepancies arise on the download when using preemptive, as that knocks off more than reactive. I've certainly never seen inaccuracies with the upload slider before. I factory reset the R1 last night and walked through the optimal setup for me again so I'll test again in a little while. My max line rate is 65Mb down 20Mb up so I set that on the R1, didn't auto setup, disabled IPv6, enabled cookies, fixed the geofilter settings for my PS4, set sliders to 70% reactive, added PSN to the hyper lane etc. TalkTalk doesn't use PPPoE so at least that variable doesn't come in to play; however, I never had inaccurate bandwidth on PPPoE with BT through the R1 either.
  10. I'm gonna get the laptop out in a bit and have a play lol. I'll let you know if I get anywhere bud
  11. I'm no longer convinced the issue is with the PS4. I just set my R1 CC to 70%, 30% and 1% to test my bandwidth with my new 80/20 VDSL2 line. I'm getting almost dead on 20Mb up every time on different devices, wired and wireless. Download is moving around randomly (like I got 43Mb with 30% preemptive, when the max I'm getting is just 54Mb total in the first place with fluctuations heading south) but upload stays put. I wasn't using device priority but I hit reset anyway - no difference. I rebooted the R1 - no difference. The bloat is coming from congestion control no longer working. It was fine up until this week 🤔
  12. Yeah I thought it was odd. Some forum posts mentioned using a username of >your landline number<@talktalk.net with no password. Either way bridge mode just wouldn't give me a connection on the R1. I just said F it, plugged the TT Hub in and left it because it's a mess and needs stabilising anyway. 16ms minimum latency (up from 6) with spikes up to 70ms on the R1 diagnostic test, and bandwidth is less than my guaranteed minimum. Meh.
  13. If I find anything that works I'll let you know mate 👍
  14. I haven't used the HG612 for a while. The W9970 seems to give me a more stable line, it's faster to reboot if needed and I can access the GUI from anywhere. It has an auto setup option for TalkTalk VDSL which changes to IPoE and I know people on the TalkTalk forum use them - I just can't find the exact setup steps. TalkTalk only have a guide for ADSL when using other equipment. I can get online in IPoE mode but I need to know if something else needs doing (like typing a username and password into the PPPoE section on the R1 WAN tab regardless), and of course I need to know the WAN IP if I'm not able to use bridge mode. It obviously works; I just need to find these apparently missing steps 😕
  15. Hi, I went live with TalkTalk fibre today and I've noticed something strange after setting up the modem. When I was with BT, I could set up into PPPoE mode or bridge mode. The former would make the router act as a router, I'd need to DMZ the R1 and I'd get the blue pop up on the R1 regarding "detecting another router" which was fine, while the latter was the cleanest setup and all I'd have to do was enable PPPoE on the R1 instead. Of course there's no double NAT or need to DMZ that way. On TalkTalk if I set up in IPoE mode, I get online through the R1 but there's no WAN IP on the R1 so I can't DMZ it (there's still a blue pop up). If I go into bridge mode there's no connection whatsoever, and of course there's still no WAN IP. On BT PPPoE mode would give my R1 the private WAN IP of 192.168.1.64, while bridge mode would give it the public WAN IP my modem normally handles if it's in combo mode. Since I'm using IPoE and not PPPoE there's no need for a username or password, meaning the PPPoE function on the R1 is redundant. Does anyone else out there on TalkTalk know how to use bridge mode. Do I still need some kind of username and password for the PPPoE tab, with it just acting as an alternative to PPPoE? I'm a bit stumped with this. I assumed that since there's no "log in" needed it would be more like using bridge mode on Virgin Media, which was a breeze as you'd simply turn it on and get a modem connection to the R1 as I did back in 2016. Suggestions would be welcomed. I would prefer to use modem mode with the R1 handling everything past that of course. Thanks.
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